Restaurant critic and Drink columnist for the Inquirer.
Bank & Bourbon
When the sad news came recently that the Four Seasons hotel would shutter its Fountain Restaurant by the end of December, it signaled the finale of a four-bell era of extraordinary ambition in hotel dining.
I took some solace at Bank & Bourbon with a wooden board graced with silky piles of cured hams from Benton's, Creminelli, and the Hamery - plus my choice of 80 or so whiskeys. And while this nine-month-old newcomer to the Loews Philadelphia Hotel is clearly angling for a completely different role in our world, I was happily reminded that a generous course of cured pig and whiskey can go a long way toward easing through any challenging transition.
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