Restaurant critic and Drink columnist for the Inquirer.
Mustard Greens, pleasant, minimalist Chinese cuisine
He was still dressed in his crisp boardroom suit, the silver mane neatly coiffed, the designer glasses just right, a mail-order bottle of cult Napa cab open ("it's my ex-wife's favorite. Would you like a taste?") and a feast before him that pinged the greatest hits of the Mustard Greens canon.
There was an aromatic nest of toasty garlic noodles, a steamer basket of handmade pork dumplings, a vivid-green mound of heat-blistered string beans with bits of pickled cabbage, a crispy fan of butterflied trout glossed with dark Hunan sauce, and, yes, the obligatory indulgence of Mustard Greens' General's chicken.
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