Restaurant critic and Drink columnist for the Inquirer.
Junto: One of the suburbs' top new restaurants
We had arrived at the edge of suburban civilization as we know it. On one side was a Whole Foods Market. On the other side of Wilmington Pike was a herd of deer munching across the rolling Delaware County fields of recently cut alfalfa, their hungry eyes ablaze with the setting sun.
Was that fresh sturgeon I smelled, smoking sweetly on a grill somewhere behind Junto, the restaurant prettily lit with strings of white lights, attached to a strip mall here? Is that the gypsy guitar of Django Reinhardt beckoning me inside the simple elegance of this airy "modern farmhouse," where a vintage Speed Queen washtub in the corner brims with ice and chilling BYO wines?
Continue Reading ...