The hungriest, thirstiest, crumb-trackin' man in Philadelphia.
Restaurant critic and Drink columnist for the Inquirer.
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TOM GRALISH / Staff Photographer

Mustard Greens, pleasant, minimalist Chinese cuisine


March 1, 2015

He was still dressed in his crisp boardroom suit, the silver mane neatly coiffed, the designer glasses just right, a mail-order bottle of cult Napa cab open ("it's my ex-wife's favorite. Would you like a taste?") and a feast before him that pinged the greatest hits of the Mustard Greens canon.

There was an aromatic nest of toasty garlic noodles, a steamer basket of handmade pork dumplings, a vivid-green mound of heat-blistered string beans with bits of pickled cabbage, a crispy fan of butterflied trout glossed with dark Hunan sauce, and, yes, the obligatory indulgence of Mustard Greens' General's chicken.

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