Restaurant critic and Drink columnist for the Inquirer.
Garces' Volvér overdoes the culinary performance art
There are 15 courses in the "performance" that is currently dinner at Volvér, Jose Garces' jewel-box kitchen atelier in the Kimmel Center. And some of them are memorable, from the skewered takoyaki balls stuffed with salt cod among the opening snacks to a bowl of "milk & cereal" unlike anything you'd eat for breakfast.
But the most telling item I was served here wasn't meant to be eaten. Between the sardine course and the live scallop, our waiter brought a silver platter bearing a phone charger: "Is your battery running low? A lot of people like to Instagram while they're here, and we wouldn't want you to run out of power."
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