The hungriest, thirstiest, crumb-trackin' man in Philadelphia.
Restaurant critic and Drink columnist for the Inquirer.
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(DAVID M WARREN / Staff Photographer)

Junto: One of the suburbs' top new restaurants

Sept. 18, 2014

We had arrived at the edge of suburban civilization as we know it. On one side was a Whole Foods Market. On the other side of Wilmington Pike was a herd of deer munching across the rolling Delaware County fields of recently cut alfalfa, their hungry eyes ablaze with the setting sun.

Was that fresh sturgeon I smelled, smoking sweetly on a grill somewhere behind Junto, the restaurant prettily lit with strings of white lights, attached to a strip mall here? Is that the gypsy guitar of Django Reinhardt beckoning me inside the simple elegance of this airy "modern farmhouse," where a vintage Speed Queen washtub in the corner brims with ice and chilling BYO wines?

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